SHARP VZ-2000XA
- Thread starter LJV
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The power fuse in glass tube, was replaced with a fuse from the car. I want to replace it asap with apropriate one, but couldn't find info in service manual. Can anyone tell me the Amperage and id for those fuses, that are much bigger than comon glass tube ones?
Thanks in advance!
EDIT: Found it written above the slot: 4A
Thanks in advance!
EDIT: Found it written above the slot: 4A
BoomboxLover48
Boomus Fidelis
It is a 1.0A fuse. That is the color banded small fuse next to the power transformer. I don't see a need of a 4.0A fuse. That will kill the unit before the fuse blows. Watts/volts = Ampere Look at the power consumption in Watts and do the simple Math to get the Amps of fuse needed. Give a 15% more tolerance.BoomboxLover48 said:
BoomboxLover48
Boomus Fidelis
baddboybill
Boomus Fidelis
First of all, don't get me wrong, I'm not getting into argument, this is just very confusing. 
I can find 1A fuse, no problem, but the writing on the pb is so big, clean, the font is large, no margin of doubt about what is written.
I don't know what to think. Why would famous manufacturer like Sharp print 4 times greater value on pb of it's top audio device of that time? It can't be that it says 4A/125V only on mine.
Perhaps being a switchable model that can work on 110V and on 220V provides an explanation?
I can find 1A fuse, no problem, but the writing on the pb is so big, clean, the font is large, no margin of doubt about what is written.
I don't know what to think. Why would famous manufacturer like Sharp print 4 times greater value on pb of it's top audio device of that time? It can't be that it says 4A/125V only on mine.
Perhaps being a switchable model that can work on 110V and on 220V provides an explanation?
baddboybill
Boomus Fidelis
Then that's fine use the 4 ampLJV said:First of all, don't get me wrong, I'm not getting into argument, this is just very confusing.
I can find 1A fuse, no problem, but the writing on the pb is so big, clean, the font is large, no margin of doubt about what is written.
I don't know what to think. Why would famous manufacturer like Sharp print 4 times greater value on pb of it's top audio device of that time? It can't be that it says 4A/125V only on mine.
Perhaps being a switchable model that can work on 110V and on 220V provides an explanation?View attachment 1273
baddboybill
Boomus Fidelis
Sorry I totally forgot. I will check but send me a reminder message tomorrow evening pleaseLJV said:Great. I hope this didn't distract you while you were checking for that big sliders and power button
WOO-HOO!
Well, almost... perhaps, IF-THAN very much Basic like.
Got a family member flying from US (LA) to Europe on 7th of June. It would be fantastic is you could find and send them those parts in that time frame.
This is a rare opportunity, they don't come to Europe that often, perhaps every two or three years to visit family, so I'm thinking of something else I could ask them to bring along
since it is not heavy and not the subject of customs fee.
Apart from slider(s) and power button, battery door for VZ is the only thing I'm missing on it.
Front panel for Sony FH-150R tuner ST-177R (unscratched and nicely preserved, or at least the panel's frame and giant + - button from any compatible lower FH models).
Please check for those too and pm me if you find any, and the price.
Well, almost... perhaps, IF-THAN very much Basic like.
Got a family member flying from US (LA) to Europe on 7th of June. It would be fantastic is you could find and send them those parts in that time frame.
This is a rare opportunity, they don't come to Europe that often, perhaps every two or three years to visit family, so I'm thinking of something else I could ask them to bring along
since it is not heavy and not the subject of customs fee.Apart from slider(s) and power button, battery door for VZ is the only thing I'm missing on it.
Front panel for Sony FH-150R tuner ST-177R (unscratched and nicely preserved, or at least the panel's frame and giant + - button from any compatible lower FH models).
Please check for those too and pm me if you find any, and the price.
Sigh. Unfortunately, baddboybill checked and found out that he has no big original sliders with broken subs and preserved top.
So, if someone else has just one big original slider for VZ with broken stub, with preserved top with no damage, please let me know.
I'm also looking for power button with broken lever, with preserved knob that sticks out. Perhaps I'd buy power button without anything broken, but I guess that it is much rarer than broken ones.
So, if someone else has just one big original slider for VZ with broken stub, with preserved top with no damage, please let me know.
I'm also looking for power button with broken lever, with preserved knob that sticks out. Perhaps I'd buy power button without anything broken, but I guess that it is much rarer than broken ones.
m40dotcom
Member (SA)
Oh and, as all the one's I've worked on had that same dissolved turntable belt mess, make sure you get that all cleaned up real nice before letting that new one go in. It'a a b*tch to get off your skin and really anything so try and keep things clean and workspace clear. Use that belt took to pick out the little bits of gooey belt that tend to end up everywhere around the big turntable black 'wheel' and bottom of turntable section. I used that to pick out the pieces and then right onto a paper towel to clean up the pick.
Thanks for reply and offered assistance. Will keep it in mind.
I've made an order which I plan to follow.
1. Get all missing parts (slider & p. button)
2. Get all spares (belts and needles)
3. Repaint both woofer nets (prepare surface and spray in several layers)
4. Polish the plexi cover (this actually scares me the most, because existing marks are not catching the eye at all, while polishing can go wrong, and than there's no turning back)
5. Hopefully, assemble it, and never have to open it again.
It is really nice unit, even more beautiful than more compact 2500 model, and I'd like to make it fully functional, but I have to follow previously mentioned order, because it seams pointless to replace belts and needles, and than wait who knows how long before managing to get those few parts (slider and p button). I would like to show it in all its glory, looking and working.
I've made an order which I plan to follow.
1. Get all missing parts (slider & p. button)
2. Get all spares (belts and needles)
3. Repaint both woofer nets (prepare surface and spray in several layers)
4. Polish the plexi cover (this actually scares me the most, because existing marks are not catching the eye at all, while polishing can go wrong, and than there's no turning back)
5. Hopefully, assemble it, and never have to open it again.
It is really nice unit, even more beautiful than more compact 2500 model, and I'd like to make it fully functional, but I have to follow previously mentioned order, because it seams pointless to replace belts and needles, and than wait who knows how long before managing to get those few parts (slider and p button). I would like to show it in all its glory, looking and working.
BoomboxLover48
Boomus Fidelis
Use 0% mineral spirits to clean the mess from the belts. Mineral spirits (7%) that you can buy from paint store is also fine to clean the metal or plastic parts stained with the mess. They will have a max of 7% xylene, toluene and other fractions which can attack paint. I prefer using 0% mineral spirits. The same you can get from hardware stores named glue remover.
0% MS you can also use on automotive exterior paint to remove tar. No worries! It cannot attack the clear coat.
0% MS you can also use on automotive exterior paint to remove tar. No worries! It cannot attack the clear coat.
Thank you!
The good thing with ttable belt is that is snapped who know when, fell down, and started melting years after that on the bottom. So, there are not even marks of it on turntable mechanism, since it landed down and disintegrated there. I will of course do the cleaning anyway.
Speaking of cleaning... I've noticed some sticky white matter that looks like some sort of grease for metal joints of door mechanism and for lubing of plastic gears. Is that some Teflon grease of what? It seams too sticky for grease, almost like that vintage paper glue for child crafts, but since it is located at previously mentioned locations, I think that it is meant to be there, but I'm worried about if something has happened to it over the time, or is it in normal state?
Isn't that a Red Bull recipe?BoomboxLover48 said:
The good thing with ttable belt is that is snapped who know when, fell down, and started melting years after that on the bottom. So, there are not even marks of it on turntable mechanism, since it landed down and disintegrated there. I will of course do the cleaning anyway.
Speaking of cleaning... I've noticed some sticky white matter that looks like some sort of grease for metal joints of door mechanism and for lubing of plastic gears. Is that some Teflon grease of what? It seams too sticky for grease, almost like that vintage paper glue for child crafts, but since it is located at previously mentioned locations, I think that it is meant to be there, but I'm worried about if something has happened to it over the time, or is it in normal state?
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