here is a rare shot --today the out-going seas were so strong --and dangerous ...
that in this shot -- just below the horizon ...
is a five foot clean wave --traveling BACKWARDS--approx speed 20 mph !
any lucky surfer that caught it -- would have had a ' free ' 100 yard ride out into the waves
any unlucky swimmer that it caught --would have drowned
that in this shot -- just below the horizon ...
is a five foot clean wave --traveling BACKWARDS--approx speed 20 mph !
any lucky surfer that caught it -- would have had a ' free ' 100 yard ride out into the waves
any unlucky swimmer that it caught --would have drowned

