M90 q/a

[redbenjoe]

not every m90 i get is mint/perfect :'-(

so - its good to have the right colors in stock -

thanks to melly -- here is the case paint code =
duplicolor T-183

and thanks to ford --
the speaker can is duplicolor fabric ==medium blue # HVP 112
plus the duplicolor clear top coat
------------------------------------
my top panel now looks like brand new-
and so do my woofs
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on a side note --i am tending to agree with the few here that have posted
that an OEM woofer color was TAN --
because this set of speakers did not look at all dirty or faded to me --(just dusty)
i painted them only because i think the blue looks better --
seen thru the grills
---------------------------
now i have one question............
anybody here know how to re-paint the DELICATE center caps-
to original shiny chrome ???
PLEASE

 

[monchito]

get a job ira

 

[floyd]

this is awesome

 

[Superduper]

Seen lots of pale gray ones but never seen a tan one before. So I think Ira needs to dust a little better.

 

[redbenjoe]

there was NO sign or slight hint of grey or blue anywhere on either speaker -
so i think they were OEM TAN ~~~!!!!!

 

[Superduper]

On picture #5, I see hints of blue peeking through the edges of the speakers.

 

[redbenjoe]

yes --all the m90 back sides are blue

 

[btphoto]

Does painting the speakers effect their sound quality.. in a good way, or a bad way?

 

[baddboybill]

Does painting the speakers effect their sound quality.. in a good way, or a bad way?

No, i have painted my lasonic trc975 speakers and it sounds the same but looks great

 

[redbenjoe]

Does painting the speakers effect their sound quality.. in a good way, or a bad way?

No, i have painted my lasonic trc975 speakers and it sounds the same but looks great

i tried to use an ultra-lite spray coat on both blue and on the top coat --
have not tested them yet --
but ford used these exact products , and his m90 sounds NEW !!
================

update -
-as per :super: advice --i used duplicolor CHROME to
re-do both center caps this morning --
as he pre-warned its NOT like real super-shiny chrome --
but 90% ok --
and as my caps were fubar anyway --it was well worth the chance-
now they look much much better

 

[btphoto]

Cool! I wonder if just using a matt clear coat would reinforce the speakers and make them more durable, perhaps even preserving them somewhat.

 

[redbenjoe]

my GUESS is yes.

btw-- these m90s have plenty of headroom to screw up the entire job

trust me - i have done ALL THAT --
and they still sound great

 

[MasterBlaster84]

Cool! I wonder if just using a matt clear coat would reinforce the speakers and make them more durable, perhaps even preserving them somewhat.

Good question, you would think the coating would inhibit paper rot.

 

[redbenjoe]

for example --here is an abortion i created several years ago-
both woofs were drenched with a fat magic marker :'-(

and they STILL SOUND GREAT

 

[Superduper]

Cool! I wonder if just using a matt clear coat would reinforce the speakers and make them more durable, perhaps even preserving them somewhat.

On other speakers, maybe. On M90's, probably no difference in durability, because these are the only boombox speakers I know of that comes from the factory with the cones (front side only) laminated with a thin coat of urethane.

===========

As for effects on sound -- I have painted speakers before and did not "hear" any real audible difference. However, since there was no way to A/B them, can't really say for sure. I CAN tell you that on the audiophile forums, painting speakers is highly frowned upon (dyeing is different since it involves light solvent like alcohol that evaporates 100%) because they agree 100% that it does in fact affect the sound. There have actually been members that have done before/after comparisons tests with test instruments and found that indeed, it does affect sound. In general, it seems the effects are to beef up the bottom end but at the sacrifice of SPL (sensitivity) and also a noticeable attenuation of the high frequencies. But audiophiles don't really like any changes that deviate from original and notice the slight nuances in their music. I must say that what I hear them talk about sometimes makes me wonder if my ears are really that insensitive or if their detection abilites are more imaginative. In any event, it does appear that test instruments can detect the changes in the speaker response curve (I seen the curve graphs) so let's just say there is likely truth that making the cones heavier will in fact make them more sluggish, especially to the higher frequencies where low cone mass is important. So never ever ever paint a tweeter. But on a boombox, with crude sound and 10% thd, I'd say perhaps it's something we can all live with and may never notice..... so paint away!

One final note. Most likely best not to paint the speaker surrounds, especially on paper surrounds. That's because while the cones can remain rigid, surrounds need to be flexible. Unfortunately, most cheapo boombox speakers don't even have true surrounds and basically just treat the paper edge with some tar and call it a surround.

 

[btphoto]

I figured it must affect the sound in some way, even if it isn't audible by the human ear.

Speaking of surrounds, check this baby out:

 

[skippy1969]

Looking good Ira!

 

[71spud]

But audiophiles don't really like any changes that deviate from original and notice the slight nuances in their music. I must say that what I hear them talk about sometimes makes me wonder if my ears are really that insensitive or if their detection abilites are more imaginative.

Remember these are the same people that spend THOUSANDS of dollars on a power cord. And THOUSANDS on interconnects. They mount their equipment on floating platforms and cryogenically treated feet.... and upgrade their outlets to "hospital grade" specs. And it only gets sillier from there....

 

[alfie]

But audiophiles don't really like any changes that deviate from original and notice the slight nuances in their music. I must say that what I hear them talk about sometimes makes me wonder if my ears are really that insensitive or if their detection abilites are more imaginative.

Remember these are the same people that spend THOUSANDS of dollars on a power cord. And THOUSANDS on interconnects. They mount their equipment on floating platforms and cryogenically treated feet.... and upgrade their outlets to "hospital grade" specs. And it only gets sillier from there....

Nutters

 

[zorlac]

"superduper"....

The surrounds were meant to absorb and compensate for any movement that the cone may encounter keeping the cone fixed in a linear position. The surround being fixed to both the basket frame and cone is designed to move with the "suspension" to absorb all of the movement. The speakers suspension is located at the base of the cone. If you paint or harden the material that makes up your "surrounds" you are creating an unatural resistance between the two.
If you absolutely have to interrupt a speaker surround at least try using a dynamic or "flexible" material as opposed to something that is "static" or hard, such as hard curing aeresole paint. And on that note, using a marker is not good, for one it's easier less time consuming to go ahead and paint it. 2, it is not good to rube a piece of wet felt over the surface of thin paper, it will rub off in small amounts creating a resistance that will eventually wear through-this is not good at all (the m90 and all other woofers that have a durable coating such as eurethane or other, maybe but paper? no way).

Here is another note to remember when painting speaker drivers, the dust cap (and "surrounds") in some designs need to be open or breathable, such as this Altec Lansing 414-16C woofer which uses a screen

Here are some pics of the suspension which needs to move in response to the surround.

Here is a pic of the surround from this 1973 jbl 123-1a woofer, notice how it is still flexible and tacky from the material that was used to coat the cloth. This was designed to flex throughout the life of the woofer.