JVC M90 Cassette Won't Eject (Help)

aiwapanasonic

Member (SA)
That's an extremely thorough M90 restoration, great find! Here's the translation if anyone needs it link
I know, they disassembled every single switch and pot! The volume pot had the broken sliders so good on them! But they didn’t recap, that is interesting. Of the eight or so machines serviced recently by my restorer, only one needed some recapping but not the others.
My favourite photo is the four m90’s stacked together, it’s beautiful!
 

JC Slater

Member (SA)
*** UPDATE #2 ***

Good news, I don't think I broke anything! All 3 belts were replaced, the deck is now fully functional and plays at a consistent speed without any fluttering. Only thing now is the tape speed, which is pretty much chopped and screwed. Tapes play at a very noticeable 10 BPMs slower than it should be, any suggestions? I believe there's a speed adjustment on the motor, could it possibly be under this white plastic hole? If so, what kind of tool should I use and which way should I turn it. Thanks...
 

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Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
Use a tiny jewelers flat blade screwdriver, or even better, a plastic electronics one if you can find, and don't force anything. If it doesn't feel like you are turning a potentiometer, you might not be, and you might actually be prying on a diode or something if the blade isn't aligned right.
 

JC Slater

Member (SA)
Well ****...

I went into the motor with a flathead, turned the potentiometer clockwise, and the tape speed got faster! I played a couple tapes but felt like it needed to speed up a little bit more to my liking, so I re-inserted the flathead and turned it clockwise to the max. Then my dumbass got a greedy, tried to turn it too far, that's when I felt something strip. I knew i ****ed up, so I tried to test it immediately. I pushed play, the deck didn't respond, and the door got jammed. I spun the flywheel a couple times to get the door opened and once I did this i heard the deck go through its normal cycle.

At this point I tried testing the deck again. First, I fast forwarded a tape which worked. Then I rewound it, which worked. Finally I pushed play which did not work and the door jammed... again. I spun the flywheel a couple times, got the door to eject, but now the deck is not working at all . When I power it up the start cycle doesn't go, and when I power it down I hear a very quiet click.

I'm pretty defeated right now, did I cook the motor? Any suggestions or is it game over?
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
This deck has 2 motors. 1 for FF/RW and the other spins the capstan flywheel and needle. Yes it sounds like you broke the motor potentiometer for the play motor which is a tiny thing and only has about 120* range of rotation. If it was in the center position, that means you can only spin that pot about 60*, which is not enough. If it wasn’t at the midpoint setting, it’s possible the range could’ve been even less.

In my post #23, you might notice I specifically warned to not force anything.
 

JC Slater

Member (SA)
Thanks for all the help the quick reply Supeduper. It was at the center position, and when turned all the way to the right the speed was still slower than stock range. At that moment I made a horrible decision which was if the potentiometer is cranked up all the way, and still playing slow, then will this motor ever be able to play the correct speed? So out of emotion I tired to force it to play faster. I know, pretty insane logic.

I need some closure at this point so I'm asking if there is a way to replace this motor, or do I have a boombox that will never play tapes again.
 

Superduper

Moderator
Staff member
There are many reasons why the deck might play slower than it should that might not be related to the motor. First you got new belts. Were they too short? too thick, too stiff? All that can contribute. Yes, I know you might have ordered the "correct length". But factory original OEM M90 belts aren't manufactured anymore. All we can get is generic "compatible" ones and the quality as well as sizing are always a bit off, as well as the quality. Then there's grease that may have dried up and adds friction to the rotating assembly. Then there's corrosion that could have built up increasing friction. Then there's the capstan backlash. Did you adjust that or check it? Also did you pull out the capstan needle and check to see if there's any corrosion on the shaft? I always polish that shaft and add a tiny drop of silicone grease or a drop of oil there. Then there's circuitry that supplies power to the motor. There is a regulator that supplies current to that circuit (X703 if I remember right) and also a fusible resistor too. Fusible resistors are notorious for changing values over time because they run so hot, and if it has, then it could also change the amount of current to the motor, possibly causing the voltage to droop during use. In any event, when the potentiometer runs out of adjustment, then it's time to evaluate the other potential causes, because when the adjustment is up against the stop, any further twist will just twist that tiny potentiometer cap off as the shell is probably as thin as aluminum foil.

As for replacing the motor, yes, boombox enthusiasts have probably all replaced cassette motors at one time or another. Almost all boombox capstan motors are very similar and they almost all have the exact same mounting pattern. You'll find that in general, they all have 6 mounting holes on the face which allows you to "clock" the motor so that the rear wire connections face the original way. Finding a new factory original replacement is going to be virtually impossible as those haven't been manufactured for ages. And due to their value, everyone who owns an M90, even ones that are in horrible shape thinks that their unit is a restoration candidate when in reality, they're probably a better candidate to be parted out. In other words, hardly anyone is willing to part out an M90 anymore, they're always joining the ever growing group of M90 owners searching for parts. Getting a compatible motor is probably key to getting the deck working again. And you'd be wise to check all of the fusible resistors too to ensure that their values are still within tolerance.

I'm sending you a PM shortly. Check it.
 

aiwapanasonic

Member (SA)
I have read that the cheapest one with similar antennae posts and similar motor is the 656. It is normally a beautiful sounding box but the first candidate to be canibalized. However, it has the reverse motor direction so you need to disassemble the motor, unsolder the board, then reverse the board and solder/ assemble again.

There are only a limited numbers of working m90’s left and this isn’t a machine to learn on. I would entrust it to someone with experience to restore properly because like superduper said, there are lots of other things to check. Even to adjust the speed alone, you should do it with a service tape and use a pc program as a minimum; but the correct belt tension and electric measurements, for that you need education and experience.
 

caution

Member (SA)
Try the places mentioned in this thread?