JVC M90 Cassette Won't Eject (Help)

[JC Slater]

Hi guys, it's been a minute! So I recently I've been firing up cassettes because my kids (6 and 7) have been super interested in the boombox. Everything was working fine until today. I was playing a tape then hit the rewind button which seemed to cause the tape deck to stop functioning. None of the buttons are responsive and it seems frozen in the tape cycle, so the tape will not eject. Because the deck is stuck in the cycle, the eject button is jammed and won't push down. Hopefully this makes sense.

1) Did something short/break?
2) Is there an easy fix for this?
3) How do I get the tape out?

Thanks guys, hope to hear from you soon.

Thanks,

Jay

 

[floyd]

Hi guys, it's been a minute! So I recently I've been firing up cassettes because my kids (6 and 7) have been super interested in the boombox. Everything was working fine until today. I was playing a tape then hit the rewind button which seemed to cause the tape deck to stop functioning. None of the buttons are responsive and it seems frozen in the tape cycle, so the tape will not eject. Because the deck is stuck in the cycle, the eject button is jammed and won't push down. Hopefully this makes sense.

1) Did something short/break?
2) Is there an easy fix for this?
3) How do I get the tape out?

Thanks guys, hope to hear from you soon.

Thanks,

Jay

Sounds like the main drive belt went out . if you open up the unit and try to spin the main flywheel it should unlock the deck enough to get the door open.

 

[JC Slater]

Sounds like the main drive belt went out . if you open up the unit and try to spin the main flywheel it should unlock the deck enough to get the door open.

Thanks Floyd, I'm going in I'll keep you posted.

 

[JC Slater]

Thanks Floyd, I'm going in I'll keep you posted.

***Update: I opened it up, unscrewed the deck, and removed the cassette tape. While the deck was accessible, I started poking the head gently with a screwdriver and it clicked into position. I put it the deck back in place, and the cassette door was no longer jammed, so I screwed everything back in and closed her up. When I powered it back up I heard the deck go through its normal startup cycle. I was hesitant to put another tape in, but amazingly it played one like nothing ever happened . Got lucky!

 

[Superduper]

I suspect the belts are loose and this will happen again sooner rather than later.

 

[BoomboxLover48]

Ultimately, deck malfunction will burn up the fusible resistor too!

 

[BoomboxLover48]

***Update: I opened it up, unscrewed the deck, and removed the cassette tape. While the deck was accessible, I started poking the head gently with a screwdriver and it clicked into position. I put it the deck back in place, and the cassette door was no longer jammed, so I screwed everything back in and closed her up. When I powered it back up I heard the deck go through its normal startup cycle. I was hesitant to put another tape in, but amazingly it played one like nothing ever happened . Got lucky!

Stay away from using metal objects to "poke" the playback head. Use a wooden tongue depressor or a plastic rod.

 

[BoomboxLover48]

Next step should be replacing it with new belts. If not, the deck will cause more problems.

 

[JC Slater]

Stay away from using metal objects to "poke" the playback head. Use a wooden tongue depressor or a plastic rod.

Thanks for the heads up, note taken.

 

[JC Slater]

I suspect the belts are loose and this will happen again sooner rather than later.

You were right. I put in a tape today and it played for about 3 seconds then stopped. I tried a couple different tapes and the same result. When I fast forward and rewind it only last the same 3 seconds. I also noticed the counter isn’t working anymore. Super bummed.

 

[JC Slater]

Next step should be replacing it with new belts. If not, the deck will cause more problems.

 

[JC Slater]

On a scale of 1-10 how hard is replacing the belts on this unit, haha? In your opinion is this a fairly easy process, or should I leave it to a pro?

 

[Superduper]

This deck is not especially hard to rebelt, there are many more boomboxes that are far more difficult. This provided that the fusible resistors haven't blown, which WILL happen if you continue to play it with loose belts. Since you've already taken the deck out, I would say you are 1/2 way there. Just take lots of photos and leave lots of bread crumbs or notes. If you forgot where something goes and didn't take photos,, don't be suprised if other members don't go rushing to disassemble their boomboxes to snap photos which you neglected to do of the areas in need.

 

[JC Slater]

This deck is not especially hard to rebelt, there are many more boomboxes that are far more difficult. This provided that the fusible resistors haven't blown, which WILL happen if you continue to play it with loose belts. Since you've already taken the deck out, I would say you are 1/2 way there. Just take lots of photos and leave lots of bread crumbs or notes. If you forgot where something goes and didn't take photos,, don't be suprised if other members don't go rushing to disassemble their boomboxes to snap photos which you neglected to do of the areas in need.

Thanks for the reply. I am confident that I can get it done, just wanted to make sure I wasn’t getting into a tricky job. There’s a guy on you tube (retro_restos) who shows the process, but the footage cuts away when he’s actually installing the new belts. I guess we’ll see when I get there lol.

Quick question, are the fusible resistors in any trouble if I don’t play tapes? More specifically just turning the unit on and the head does it startup cycle thing, is this risking damage? I like to play music via the line in, hopefully this wouldn’t have any effect in the mean time.

 

[Superduper]

Yes, if the belts slips during the cycling / reset, the resistors might be in trouble. If you don’t plan to play tapes and you want to leave loose belts in there, I would suggest just disconnecting the electrical connector to the deck.

 

[JC Slater]

Yes, if the belts slips during the cycling / reset, the resistors might be in trouble. If you don’t plan to play tapes and you want to leave loose belts in there, I would suggest just disconnecting the electrical connector to the deck.

Thanks for the info! I’ll refrain from powering it up until the belts are ordered and swapped. I’ll post an update after I go in, hopefully a good one. Any tips about the process would be highly appreciated.

 

[aiwapanasonic]

I just can't help but direct you to Reno's (Radio Raheem) post - sadly, he's no longer with us but hopefully in a batter place - this post is a gem that should be pinned and I'd also like to print it on a T-shirt:

"
1 changing the belts

Take the back off
disconnect the main 3 pin power plug
disconnect 1 antanna plug. one 3 pin plug to tuner board
take the 4 screws out holding the board on the back of the deck
disconnect the (think its 8 pin(plugs) one on each side of the board ajoined to the back of the deck...
lift board carfully out of the way....wires are still connected under the board if i remember right..but dont tuch them
remove the metal plate under the circuit board by removing the 3 or 4 screws
carfully lift the circuit board and the metal plate out of the way
you will see the main flywheel..small belt going from the flywheel to another small weel...this is the small square belt...
main flywheel belt goes from the flywheel to the motor....should take no more than 20 min to complete the whole process...when done reverse the process and put the back on...your done'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''

2 How to recap an m90
get a soldering iron....take aprox 140 caps out replace them with the new ones.....balls if im doing that lol

3 How to buy an m90...Pay more than anybody else lol

4 how to dispose of an m90.....give to ned209 who will smash it up with his baseballbat set fire to it....and boot it with his foot...god those days were funny

alternative ending

Send you broken ol beat up m90 to redbenjoe....he lives in good ol florida usa....and he knows all the hot chicks like madonna....seriously

get him to get her to place her cat on your m90

lol

then your broken old m90 will be woth millions......half of your funds must go to the good ol redbenjpe federation trust fund though....but you will still be stinking rich of you're ol broken m90

"
original post here: https://www.stereo2go.com/topic/ind...92314111653340&content_oid=269535813945305129

 

[aiwapanasonic]

Other than this, just take lots of photos like Superduper said; make note of each plug and each screw because the ones that are close to electrical parts are different, not sure if different material but they look a different colour. I draw diagrams on sheets of paper and make double-sided pieces of sticky tape and put the screws there; other people draw on cardboard and stick the screws in the cardboard. You can also use permament markers with different colour to mark your plugs and screws.

Don't use bubblewrap or synthetic material around because it can cause static electricity; dry cotton kitchen towels are probably ok.

If you want to test anything while disassembled, make sure you don't have mechanical parts touching the boards with electric elements - otherwise you will short something. Also watch out for jamming mechanical parts... putting things on dry wooden cutting boards apart should be ok... but you need to fix the deck so there's no spinning parts touching other things; I would probably test once assembled because otherwise you have lots of room for error.


While the deck is out, I would oil the moving parts with the right oils: I use watch oil for the motor, capstans; silicon grease near any plastic; but there are more specialised oils too for brass. I would also clean any leaf switches like the ones that detect if the tape is inside - with deoxit probably.

I have found pictures on this Japanese site but there's a lot more here than a belt change: http://www.video-koubou-topaz.jp/VICTOR-RC-M90-RIPAIR.html

There should be re-belt videos on youtube, haven't searched.

If your machine hasn't been serviced in a long time, you should review also the speakers for micro tears; and at some point, all the pots and all switches will benefit some greasing / oiling. For the pots, there is a special lube+contact cleaner.

One more thing: I'd also lube the main screws with silicon grease - the ones that go into the plastic and hold the back lid; so you don't need to worry about them getting stuck and breaking away plastic with age. Same for Antenna bases and the antennas.

 

[JC Slater]

Other than this, just take lots of photos like Superduper said; make note of each plug and each screw because the ones that are close to electrical parts are different, not sure if different material but they look a different colour. I draw diagrams on sheets of paper and make double-sided pieces of sticky tape and put the screws there; other people draw on cardboard and stick the screws in the cardboard. You can also use permament markers with different colour to mark your plugs and screws.

Don't use bubblewrap or synthetic material around because it can cause static electricity; dry cotton kitchen towels are probably ok.

If you want to test anything while disassembled, make sure you don't have mechanical parts touching the boards with electric elements - otherwise you will short something. Also watch out for jamming mechanical parts... putting things on dry wooden cutting boards apart should be ok... but you need to fix the deck so there's no spinning parts touching other things; I would probably test once assembled because otherwise you have lots of room for error.


While the deck is out, I would oil the moving parts with the right oils: I use watch oil for the motor, capstans; silicon grease near any plastic; but there are more specialised oils too for brass. I would also clean any leaf switches like the ones that detect if the tape is inside - with deoxit probably.

I have found pictures on this Japanese site but there's a lot more here than a belt change: http://www.video-koubou-topaz.jp/VICTOR-RC-M90-RIPAIR.html

There should be re-belt videos on youtube, haven't searched.

If your machine hasn't been serviced in a long time, you should review also the speakers for micro tears; and at some point, all the pots and all switches will benefit some greasing / oiling. For the pots, there is a special lube+contact cleaner.

One more thing: I'd also lube the main screws with silicon grease - the ones that go into the plastic and hold the back lid; so you don't need to worry about them getting stuck and breaking away plastic with age. Same for Antenna bases and the antennas.

Thank you so much for all the information, I appreciate you for real tho! RIP to Reno, I'm sure he's in better place. I will keep everyone posted with the progress.

 

[caution]

Other than this, just take lots of photos like Superduper said; make note of each plug and each screw because the ones that are close to electrical parts are different, not sure if different material but they look a different colour. I draw diagrams on sheets of paper and make double-sided pieces of sticky tape and put the screws there; other people draw on cardboard and stick the screws in the cardboard. You can also use permament markers with different colour to mark your plugs and screws.

Don't use bubblewrap or synthetic material around because it can cause static electricity; dry cotton kitchen towels are probably ok.

If you want to test anything while disassembled, make sure you don't have mechanical parts touching the boards with electric elements - otherwise you will short something. Also watch out for jamming mechanical parts... putting things on dry wooden cutting boards apart should be ok... but you need to fix the deck so there's no spinning parts touching other things; I would probably test once assembled because otherwise you have lots of room for error.


While the deck is out, I would oil the moving parts with the right oils: I use watch oil for the motor, capstans; silicon grease near any plastic; but there are more specialised oils too for brass. I would also clean any leaf switches like the ones that detect if the tape is inside - with deoxit probably.

I have found pictures on this Japanese site but there's a lot more here than a belt change: http://www.video-koubou-topaz.jp/VICTOR-RC-M90-RIPAIR.html

There should be re-belt videos on youtube, haven't searched.

If your machine hasn't been serviced in a long time, you should review also the speakers for micro tears; and at some point, all the pots and all switches will benefit some greasing / oiling. For the pots, there is a special lube+contact cleaner.

One more thing: I'd also lube the main screws with silicon grease - the ones that go into the plastic and hold the back lid; so you don't need to worry about them getting stuck and breaking away plastic with age. Same for Antenna bases and the antennas.

That's an extremely thorough M90 restoration, great find! Here's the translation if anyone needs it link