Cap upgrade Conion c100f then not working

[caution]

Those are switches inside the power jack that redirect ground depending on if you have AC or DC plugged in.
The upper switch moves when you plug in AC, so it redirects ground from the batteries and DC plug over to the transformer.
The lower switch moves when you insert a DC barrel plug, so it disconnects ground from the batteries.

The AC switch takes precedence over the DC switch, so if you happen to plug both AC and DC in, AC wins.

The AC switch is strictly a switch. The AC plug pushes down on a plastic piece attached to the switch.
The DC switch's moving part (pin 4) has two jobs: it's metallic, and creates the connection to ground against the side of the DC plug.
It also disconnects the ground connection to the batteries.

 

[keeney123]

Those are switches inside the power jack that redirect ground depending on if you have AC or DC plugged in.
The upper switch moves when you plug in AC, so it redirects ground from the batteries and DC plug over to the transformer.
The lower switch moves when you insert a DC barrel plug, so it disconnects ground from the batteries.

The AC switch takes precedence over the DC switch, so if you happen to plug both AC and DC in, AC wins.

The AC switch is strictly a switch. The AC plug pushes down on a plastic piece attached to the switch.
The DC switch's moving part (pin 4) has two jobs: it's metallic, and creates the connection to ground against the side of the DC plug.
It also disconnects the ground connection to the batteries.

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Thank you again Caution. I had no idea that the AC plug had a switch in it. I understood the external dc can have a pressure switch. I just did not expect the AC plug having a switch also. It makes sense now. One has to focus on the AC switch or the pin 1 and 2 connections. If it connects and has a resistance in the connection the return line will drop a voltage at that connection.

 

[keeney123]

I am a little confused. I know the Transformer board is alright. I touched up the solder joints and now get 20.1Volts out of it. I was confused at first on the power board because someone had made the orange wire going to the ground of the battery holder. I just relabeled it as ground. I also know that when I put negative lead of the meter to where the black wire goes and the red lead of the meter where the red wire goes, I get +20 volts.

Here is the problem. With both switches in the off state, I measure in ohms on the lowest scale 1 ohm or less from the red wire that would connect to the power board to where the cathode or the LEDs on the power/ alarm board. Here is the confusion on the power/alarm board the red wire is connected to the J2003 that is listed as r and the black wire is connected to the B. Looking from the back top side of the power/alarm board where the top of the switches is the red wire is on the right-hand side and the black wire is on the left-hand side. Turning the board over one can see that this connects directly to the cathode of the leds. Am I missing something here or is the board marked wrong or are they running ground at -20 Volts DC?

 

[keeney123]

This is what I have physically looking for back solder side of board with power and alarm push buttons at top of page.

 

[keeney123]

i have also verified that the LEDs are in correctly. This I have done by soldering lead wires to the board on the connections that go to the led and using 2 AA batteries in series and touching the leads to the correct terminals. Negative lead of the battery to the shared cathode of the Leds and then the positive lead of the battery to the line going directly to the anode of one of the Leds. This then lights that led. The red wire soldered to the R connection of J2003 is going to the cathode of the leds.

I also check the blue wire that goes to CN309 the lower board from j2002 of the power/alarm board which also directly connects to the cathode of the Leds . I tried to measure the blue wire pole of CN309 on the lower board to R327 the 220K ohm and did not get a continuity verification on either side of the resistor. That means the cathodes that connecter to this blue wire is not connected to ground to the lower board. Perhaps the black wire of j2002 is the ground. I have not tried that.

I can verify when I got the unit before I change the caps. both the power led and the alarm led lit. I did not do anything with either the wires going from the power board to the power/alarm board. The red line of the power board went to the r of J2003 of the power board.
My conclusion is that my boards and unit do not align with the schematic.
I am going to return the R line to red of the j2003 and the Black line to the B of j2003. This does not make sense to me to do but I do not know the whole layout of the system.

I will also return the Black that goes from the upper cassette to I believe J208 because it was that way before I had to fix a broken board. I actually could not fix the board, so I solder the wires together where they went on the connecting board. Believing that grounds on the schematic whereas shown I solder the black wire to the brown wire. I put everything in Teflon tape. White Teflon tape has an extremely high resistance value better than that of electrical tape. I then rapped the Teflon tape with electrical tape. The tape is then tape to the back of the upper cassette.

All I will need to do is cut the black that goes to J208 and solder a connecting wire and then wrap it around a screw on the upper cassette deck. This is the original design. As the plane of that board was attached with a screw.

After I get everything together, I will power up and let you know if it works.