Hi all, I have a JVC RV-55 Kaboom that I've owned and used extensively over the years. I love the sound and want to see if I can fix it. I was hoping someone in this forum might be able to give me some advice. Many years ago it was taken in for repair because the power input stopped working. From what I can see now, the repair person soldered a green wire to bypass something on the board (I think) I've attached photos so you can see what was done. Online I found a video that may be what the problem is. You can see it at around the 3:50 mark on this helpful video.
If I could find this part I may (nevously) attempt to reattach it myself. Any tips, tricks, comments, suggestions to help me get my old beast back up and running again would be most appreciated.
Power supply repair
- Thread starter Redeft
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docs
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sorry cant really make head nor tail of this.
What part is being bypassed? The switch in the connector?
Have you checked continuity to see if all traces are good?
Check if there is continuity across the terminals of that switch with a cable in and out.
You can probably use a switched power connector and use wires to connect the terminals in if it is not an exact match.
What part is being bypassed? The switch in the connector?
Have you checked continuity to see if all traces are good?
Check if there is continuity across the terminals of that switch with a cable in and out.
You can probably use a switched power connector and use wires to connect the terminals in if it is not an exact match.
Ok it appears that he bypassed the defective AC/DC switch to restore AC connectivity. However, keep in mind that the switch in question is designed to isolate AC mains source from being connected to the same circuitry as DC (battery and DC-input). This is important because having 2 competing sources of power can cause issues, especially with respect to batteries. If the batteries are not rechargeables, they can exploded if subjected to constant charge current, and even if the installed cells were rechargeable, there is no charge metering circuit and the cells would very shortly become overcharged, get hot and......??? The ideal fix is to either repair or replace the defective switched connector, or install a new external switch to allow you to select whether AC or DC will be in use.
Thank you both for your input and suggestions. Do you know where I can find a new switch connector? If I can figure out where to get one, I will try the repair as seen in the video I posted from A1 telephone. If I do get to that stage it will be my first time removing solder and re soldering. Wish me luck! I have never used this unit with batteries. It has only ever been powered with the DC power cord. I recently bought a 12v AC adapter to see if that would work, but no luck. Do you think there is a way to maybe remove the switch connector so that I can run power to it with just the adapter? I bought a continuity tester, but have to confess, I really do not know what I am doing. I will continue to try to learn what I need to do to get it running again and appreciate you help.
Does it say Hosiden or HT on the back?
If so, I have what you need I think. I'd say either one would work, but as it turns out, the mounting holes are slightly closer together on the HT connector.
The one I have is a Hosiden. That looks like to one I need! How do we proceed? I live in Canada.
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