aiwa 880 motor
- Thread starter davebush
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Please Post a picture. Are you sure it is a capacitor? There is a small inductor coil mounted on the motor. If this one is open, then of course the motor will not run. But you could bridge it in the first instance.
Dave, to my recollection there is indeed an inductor and it looks like a shrink wrapped coil. Don't guess just test it with your DMM. Should read close to zero ohms.
Dave, R202 is a fusible resistor, it has probably blown. See if you can find a 1/2 watt 1-ohm replacement.
BoomboxLover48
Boomus Fidelis
Nice to see lots of help here. Hopefully it is that resistor. Good luck! How nice it would to see all working... 
Two ways to test that resistor Dave.
(#1), with boombox powered down, check for resistance between the two resistor leads. You should get 1 ohm. However, unless you have a high end fluke with lo-ohms mode, you are probably not going to get that kind of accuracy so if you read 2.5 ohms or less, I would say it's OK.
(#2) with boombox powered up, CAREFULLY test VOLTALGE with black probe at a known ground, and the red probe at one resistor lead first, then test the other. You should get voltage at either lead. If you only see voltage on one of the leads and not the other, then it's blown. If you get high voltage at one lead and low voltage at the other lead, then resistor is still conducting but insufficiently to do it's job.
(#1), with boombox powered down, check for resistance between the two resistor leads. You should get 1 ohm. However, unless you have a high end fluke with lo-ohms mode, you are probably not going to get that kind of accuracy so if you read 2.5 ohms or less, I would say it's OK.
(#2) with boombox powered up, CAREFULLY test VOLTALGE with black probe at a known ground, and the red probe at one resistor lead first, then test the other. You should get voltage at either lead. If you only see voltage on one of the leads and not the other, then it's blown. If you get high voltage at one lead and low voltage at the other lead, then resistor is still conducting but insufficiently to do it's job.
OK. So I am making some presumptions here. If my presumptions are incorrect, then you should check those first.
(1) WHEN you are testing voltage at R202, the motor switch (S10) must be on. This may involve manually actuating the switch or depressing play.
(2) You have confirmed that S10 is working properly.
(3) You have confirmed that S10 is getting voltage. You can verify by testing (live), with meter on DC volts function, black probe on a known ground, red probe on S10 contacts, one at a time. Without actuation, one contact should read rail voltage, the other should not. Upon actuation, both contacts should read rail voltage.
IF the above presumptions are true, then you most likely have a failure in the motor driver regulator circuit. The two most common items that fail are either the driver transistor, the regulating zener diode, or both. If you don't want to test, then just replace both of them. If you want to verify first, then I'll need (live - switch actuated) voltage measurements of B/C/E of the driver transistor which I believe is Q43 and both pins of D16. Q43 replacement is not critical if exact replacement part is not available. Just make sure to replace it with one with equivalent or higher power dissipation capability, and hopefully similar HFE. Of course if you replace it with a non-exact part, you need to make sure that the pin assignments are connected properly since the pin arrangements B/C/E may not correspond to the new device.
(1) WHEN you are testing voltage at R202, the motor switch (S10) must be on. This may involve manually actuating the switch or depressing play.
(2) You have confirmed that S10 is working properly.
(3) You have confirmed that S10 is getting voltage. You can verify by testing (live), with meter on DC volts function, black probe on a known ground, red probe on S10 contacts, one at a time. Without actuation, one contact should read rail voltage, the other should not. Upon actuation, both contacts should read rail voltage.
IF the above presumptions are true, then you most likely have a failure in the motor driver regulator circuit. The two most common items that fail are either the driver transistor, the regulating zener diode, or both. If you don't want to test, then just replace both of them. If you want to verify first, then I'll need (live - switch actuated) voltage measurements of B/C/E of the driver transistor which I believe is Q43 and both pins of D16. Q43 replacement is not critical if exact replacement part is not available. Just make sure to replace it with one with equivalent or higher power dissipation capability, and hopefully similar HFE. Of course if you replace it with a non-exact part, you need to make sure that the pin assignments are connected properly since the pin arrangements B/C/E may not correspond to the new device.
Thanks Norm....S10 is working as voltage of 16v either side of it........but it does however show that whether its activated or not , there is voltage either side of it so it must be stuck in the make position.....so at least we know its not an open switch circuit...
Looks like its the motor driver regulator circuit so ill be back to it after work tomorrow cos its 12-30 am here and i gotta sleep.....
I can see q43 but can you shed some light on the regulating zener diode...which one, value etc
Appreciate all the advice.......much appreciated
Looks like its the motor driver regulator circuit so ill be back to it after work tomorrow cos its 12-30 am here and i gotta sleep.....
I can see q43 but can you shed some light on the regulating zener diode...which one, value etc
Appreciate all the advice.......much appreciated
Funkateer38
Member (SA)
I decide after months to restore my cs-880.
The motor runs constantly even with the power OFF
Thanks for your help
The motor runs constantly even with the power OFF
Thanks for your help
Funkateer38
Member (SA)
It's true JVC Floyd, i bought wrong motor belt.
I find another set of belts in german internet site for AIWA CS-770, same for CS-880 for 11 euros
https://www.thakker.eu/en/belts/tape-deck/aiwa-cs-770-belt-kit/a-951/
Thank you
Next step, refoaming speakers surrounds
I find another set of belts in german internet site for AIWA CS-770, same for CS-880 for 11 euros
https://www.thakker.eu/en/belts/tape-deck/aiwa-cs-770-belt-kit/a-951/
Thank you
Next step, refoaming speakers surrounds
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